Journey to the Edge: Lessons from the Arctic Circle

In this land of extremes…

There is so much to learn from the things that live, grow and thrive here.

From creatures large and small…

To the abundance of plants.

Each has a voice, a place, a purpose…no matter how small.

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And they are all connected.

Here on the edge…life is always changing.

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Everything must adapt.

As I spend my last full day here I think about everything I have felt and experienced.

The lessons I have learned.

I hope that this stays with me. I hope that I can stand strong in the face of adversity and when necessary adapt with grace to the changes in my life.

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Most of all I hope I never forget that life is all about living at the edge. Taking risks and not being afraid.

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Because the edge is where we learn to breathe and we learn to open ourselves to all the beauty life has to show us.

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It’s about taking leaps of faith, being inspired, and trusting in ourselves.

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I may be leaving here…

But this journey to the edge will always be a part of me.

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Journey to the Edge: A Day in Town

The Churchill Northern Studies Center is about 19 km from the actual town of Churchill. The town is right on the Hudson Bay and on the eastern shore of the Churchill River which flows into the bay.

It is a place full of history, culture, industry, and wildlife.

Today…we spent the day in town.

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Exploring, adventuring, learning and connecting.

There are no roads that lead to Churchill. You can only get there by plane, boat or train. In the town itself there are roads…but it is isolated in many ways from the rest of Manitoba, Canada…and the world.

The population is about 900 year round residents…many descendants of the Cree, Dene, and Inuits. Their history dates backs over 3000 years.

Throughout this area as well as other arctic areas of the world you will find Inukshuks. Rock people. These were made by the Inuit to mark or indicate the direction to a good hunting or fishing or camping spot. They also often were used to mark sacred places in the landscape. In Churchill, you will find them scattered throughout the town.

Everything is either shipped in or brought by train. It is a life of simplicity…

And struggle.

A strong tourist industry helps boost the local economy. But life here on the edge isn’t easy. You can see it in the faces of the residents.

Yet there is a pride…and a deep love of this land and her creatures. A respect of the harsh and extreme elements…and a spiritual reverence for the wildlife that coexists here in the lowlands of the Hudson Bay.

Our first adventure was a boat ride across the river at the mouth, where salt water meets fresh, to see the Beluga whales. This time of year they descend upon Churchill for calving season. There were dozens of whales. Many with their babies riding on their backs as they glide through the water. It was truly breath taking. These majestic creatures…swimming all around us…showing no fear, only curiosity. Talkative and playful as we listened in on their conversation over the hydrophone.

It is a sight and an experience I will never forget.

As we rounded one of the coves…there on the beach sat a huge male polar bear. The first I had ever seen in my life. They come ashore in the summer where they live near the water in and around the rocks. It is during the summer that they fast…waiting patiently for the ice to come again so they can feed. This male had been in that spot for about 3 weeks. Injured we learned, and so he was left alone.

I wasn’t able to get a clear picture…he blended so well with the beach. But his mighty image is etched in my mind and heart forever.

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This intense and up close interaction with nature…gives a new perspective on the interconnectedness of all life on this planet. Every species has a role and is an important piece of the puzzle we call life.

Here on the edge…

I am feeling my heart expand. Opening and understanding more and more about this fragile place we live.

Inspired to do all I can…to make a difference.

Journey to the Edge: In the Field

 Besides enjoying the splendor of this incredible place…I am here to work as well. There are 11 other teachers here with me. A wonderful group, that have come from all over. including Jamaica.

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We are here to assist some of the leading scientists with their study of climate change and it’s impact on the arctic environment. This work, is not only important for the entire world, but is gathering and analyzing data that will be used for years to come. We are conducting real investigations and engaging in real scientific processes.

We are being scientists in every sense of the word. This opportunity is something that I’ve only imagined. And now…here I am. As a scientist…out in the field…doing science

The tundra ponds and their diverse populations are one means to measure the impact that global warming is having and has implications for habitats everywhere. This unique place…the edge of the arctic circle…is an indicator, a predictor, of what’s happening and what will happen if warming trends continue.

To be a part of this work is humbling. To work along side some amazing scientists, is inspiring. To be here, in the forefront of learning and research is a dream come true.

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Journey to the Edge: Arrival

Slowly the of city of Winnipeg disappears and the prairie comes into view.

Miles and miles of farms and fields. The roads line the boundaries.

Straight and angular.

And then those too disappear. There is only open land and bodies of water now.

I feel a sense of adventure. Like a pioneer embarking out on the frontier of newness. Leaving the routine of my life behind as I travel to this vast, unknown and different land.

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There is a wildness to this experience. Not knowing what to expect except that I want to embrace it with all my heart, mind, body and soul.

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I also feel a sense of hope and promise. This journey leading me to myself…as well the far north.

My eyes brim…tears of joy and healing.

An ending.

And a beginning.

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A time of letting go and letting in.

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I’m standing on the edge of my life.

And it feels incredible.

Journey to the Edge: Getting There

It will take 3 flights and 2 days to get there. Flights to Churchill, Manitoba are limited.

A night in Winnipeg and an early morning departure on Calm Air will take me to my final destination…the edge of the Arctic Circle.

The journey there…

I immerse myself in all of it.

Savoring each new sight…

Winnipeg is a beautiful city.

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I walked on the edge of an unfamiliar place. I felt so many things…

Wonder at the history of how this place came to be.

Awe as I looked up.

And happiness because I am here…on this journey.

 

Devil’s Gulch

That was the intended destination. It sounded like a perfect hike on a warm spring day. A place full of towering boulders and mystery where eerie sounds are said to be heard.

I needed distraction. I needed to move my body to help heal my spirit.

Devil’s Gulch.

2.5 miles in via the Long Trail.

The hike was different.

Up, up, up…then down, down, down.

Way down

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The ancient stone staircase that seemed to go down forever.

I was thinking…I’m going to have to climb back up those stairs.

Then, through the trees, I caught a glimpse of something…

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Water. A beaver pond? A marsh? A lake?

Hidden out here in the middle of nowhere?

Suddenly I didn’t care about having to climb back up those stairs.

I wanted to find the water.

But I kept descending. Glimpses let me know it was pretty big this body of water. Devil’s Gulch now forgotten. I was on a quest…

An intersection. I went left. Down towards where I thought the water might be.

And it was…

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I felt like I’d found paradise…

A little slice of heaven. Here, deep in the Green Mountain forest.

I didn’t wanted to leave.

This place felt magical…soothing…peaceful.

A place to sit for a while…

Where the real world feels far far away.

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I never made it to Devil’s Gulch.

I don’t think that was the destination intended for me that day…

Fire Tower

There is something exhilarating about climbing a fire tower. And there are quite a few of these relics scattered around our state. Sitting atop mountains…a remnant from the past. No longer in use. Technology having taken their place.

I have climbed a few in my day.

Usually after a challenging hike…a bonus reward at the summit…not just a spectacular view but a fire tower too.

Today, for whatever reason, I had a yearning to climb one of those towers. I didn’t want to do a huge mountain hike though, wading through two feet of fresh snow…but I wanted the reward of a tower.

Luckily for me there is a fire tower nearby. Practically in my backyard. Or 7 miles  over in the next town.

Allis State Park.

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I discovered it this fall. And I fell in love. Not only is it secluded and lovely, but there is a fire tower.

It’s not easy to find. Closed in the winter. The sign taken down. The road to the gate barely plowed.

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What a perfect day. It was cold…the sun and blue skies deceptive. But I was dressed for it and excited to make the mile long snowshoe trek up to the fire tower.

God bless snowmobilers…they had recently traveled through the park making my trek much easier.

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The snow from the recent storm coats the trees, branches bending from the weight of it. The brilliant sun casts long and intricate shadows.

The snowmobile trail ends and we make our own tracks…sinking far into the snow…

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Until the tower appears…

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It looms and stretches upward..its steel supports strong and enduring.

I take off my snowshoes and prepare to ascend.

I don’t have a fear of heights…yet looking up and seeing the top…so far away…isn’t easy. Your legs tremble a bit…your breath catches…and your stomach does a few somersaults.

I stop part way up.  Even there the view is stunning…

But it is the top…the 360 degree views that take your breath away.

Orion waits for me…down below. He’s not a fan of fire tower stairs…

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The wind whips around the tower…but the sun is warm on my face. I don’t want to leave.

I take a deep breath and inhale the view one last time…

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And descend…

Two Hour Delay

It doesn’t happen very often. In fact, I think in the 28 years I’ve been teaching, I can count them on one hand. Snow days are plentiful, but not delays.

At first, I didn’t know what to do. “All schools in the Chittenden East School District are delayed 2 hours”. I had already showered. I was dressed and ready to go.

So I went. I headed to work.

Somewhere between home and the entrance to the interstate, I decided to take a different route.

I’ve noticed on my morning commute this week some interesting things happening.

Last week the thaw. This week the bitter cold.

Here was an opportunity to look more closely and capture natures’ wondrous adaptation to this extreme temperature change.

The temperature outside read -10. But the sun was rising and with it…breathtaking sights.

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I found places to pull off.

The sun rose higher and higher. I took turns down unfamiliar roads so I could follow the river.

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The warmer water reacted with the bitter air. Plumes of vapor rose…coating the trees with frost. The sun shimmering and reflecting.

My fingers frozen. It’s hard to take pictures with gloves on. But every turn and bend in the river and road…something magical would catch my eye.

I glanced at the time. My two hour delay dwindling. I made one final stop before getting on the interstate to finish my commute.

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And made it to work on time.

Winter Sky

Each morning during my commute to work I am awestruck by the sunrises.  And because the sun sets earlier…the sunsets on the way home at night. The winter sky seems brighter, bolder, more colorful than other times of the year.

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Perhaps it is the angle of the suns’ rays. Or perhaps it is because the lack of color in the landscape makes the sky really stand out.

Whatever the reason, I find myself looking up.

In delight and wonder…

The way the clouds appear to reach outward, swirling and dancing overhead.

Light, fluffy wisps…

Resting on mountain tops…

Painting the horizon in deep, rich hues…

Color amidst the stark white scenery. Warmth during the coldest months of the year. The winter sky…

Reflections of a Year

If I were to sum up the year 2013 it would be with these words:

It has been a year of change.  A year of challenges.  A year of gifts.  A year of growth.  A year of sadness. A year of blessings. A year of understanding. A year of wandering…

Most of all, it has been a year of finding joy.

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I have traveled down many paths this year…

I have discovered many things…about the world around me and within me.

I have climbed mountains and breathed in the sea…

I have been awed by the beauty and fragility of life…

I have felt the wind and adjusted my sails…

I have experienced sunsets and sunrises…

2013 is coming to a close. I look forward to the New Year with anticipation and excitement. So much more to discover and learn. So much more wondering and wandering to do…

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Happy New Year!